Milan-based label Setchu, helmed by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata, has launched its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, a striking blend of Japanese tradition and Western tailoring. The collection, which debuted at Pitti Uomo, showcases Kuwata’s innovative approach to design, drawing inspiration from origami, manga, and classic Savile Row techniques. This season, Setchu emphasizes reduction, multifunctionality, and the seamless fusion of diverse cultural elements.
The Art of Reduction and Multifunctionality
At the heart of Setchu’s design philosophy lies the concept of “Wayo Setchu,” which translates to a compromise between Japan and the West. This idea is manifest in the brand’s approach to garment construction and design. The FW25 collection takes a single sheet of origami paper as its starting point, transforming it into garments that redefine versatility and adaptability. Each piece encourages the wearer to interact intuitively with their wardrobe, highlighting the brand’s focus on multifunctionality.
Garments are designed to be worn in multiple ways, inviting clients to experiment based on their needs and instincts. Safari jackets and coats can be shortened, shirts and blazers extend into square panels, and the tails of tailcoats tuck neatly away. This approach is not just about aesthetics; it is about creating a dynamic and adaptable wardrobe. Setchu even offers an innovative updating service, allowing clients to tweak their existing pieces, further expanding their possibilities.
A Minimalist Palette with Bold Accents
The collection’s color palette is deliberately minimalist, dominated by black, white, and grey. This monochromatic scheme evokes a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of old newspapers and black-and-white television. A seasonal grey and black tartan adds texture and depth. This subdued palette allows the innovative cuts and construction techniques to take center stage.
However, the collection also incorporates a vibrant twist. A colorful silk jacquard, inspired by The Tale of Genji, introduces an artistic element, featuring homoerotic imagery and octopus motifs drawn from Japanese manga. This unexpected addition adds layers to the collection, reflecting the designer’s playful yet sophisticated approach. These details reveal more facets of Kuwata’s personality, suggesting that future collections will continue to surprise and push boundaries.
Origami: The Soul of Setchu’s Design
Origami, the ancient Japanese art of paper folding, is a major source of inspiration for Setchu. The brand translates the principles of folding and sculpting into fabric, creating garments with geometric precision and unique silhouettes. This influence can be seen in pleated elements, the structured forms, and the transformative nature of the pieces.
The use of origami techniques in fashion is not new; designers like Issey Miyake have long incorporated such techniques into their designs. However, Setchu’s approach is distinctive, using these techniques to create multifunctional garments that challenge conventional silhouettes. The brand emphasizes the relationship between the human form and the geometric shapes created by origami folds. This focus makes each piece both a work of art and a functional item of clothing.
Innovative Construction Techniques
The collection showcases a range of innovative construction techniques. Many of the outfits are based on flat shapes that become three-dimensional when worn, reflecting the way light and shadow fall across the folds of a sheet of paper. Asymmetrical blazers with a single lapel, double-breasted jackets that cut off below the chest, and long, flowing shirts demonstrate Setchu’s commitment to unconventional design.
The brand also collaborates with Davies & Son, the oldest tailors on Savile Row, creating morning suits, double-breasted blazers, and tailcoats with origami-inspired structures. These collaborations highlight Setchu’s commitment to blending traditional tailoring techniques with modern design principles.
Manga’s Playful Influence
The influence of Japanese manga is another notable aspect of the Setchu FW25 collection. Manga, with its unique visual language, has long been a source of inspiration for fashion. From streetwear to high fashion, manga-inspired motifs have been adopted by numerous designers. Setchu’s use of manga is not merely decorative; it is integrated into the fabric itself.
The silk jacquard featuring homoerotic images and octopus motifs from Japanese manga, adds an unexpected and playful element to the collection. This bold move highlights how manga can be used to add depth and narrative to clothing design, reflecting the designer’s interest in pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion. The brand embraces manga’s ability to entertain and inspire creativity, merging it into the design process.
The Broader Impact of Manga on Fashion
The interplay between manga and fashion extends far beyond Setchu. From the shōjo manga of the post-war era to contemporary collaborations between high-fashion brands and anime series, the influence is undeniable. Manga’s impact is seen in the rise of Harajuku-style fashion, cosplay, and high-end collections.
Anime-inspired fashion has also become a global phenomenon, influencing street styles and red-carpet events worldwide. This demonstrates the widespread appeal of manga’s unique visual language and its ability to inspire creative expression in fashion. Major brands like Uniqlo, Adidas, and Gucci have collaborated with manga series, further cementing the connection between the two worlds.
Setchu: A Brand That Blends Cultures
Setchu is more than just a fashion label; it is a cultural bridge. The brand name, derived from the Japanese phrase “Wayo Setchu,” embodies the fusion of Japanese and Western cultures. Satoshi Kuwata’s background, growing up in Japan and training on Savile Row, informs his unique approach. This background allows him to seamlessly merge classic elements with contemporary design.
The brand’s philosophy also embraces unisex fashion and gender interchangeability. This challenges traditional norms and advocates for inclusivity. Setchu also echoes the Japanese concept of “Mottainai,” encouraging the principles of reduce, reuse, and recycle, thus showcasing its commitment to sustainability.
Setchu’s debut runway show at Pitti Uomo was a significant moment for the brand, marking a transition from lookbook presentations to live runway events. The show, set in Florence’s Biblioteca Nazionale, highlighted the brand’s emphasis on reduction and its fusion of diverse influences. The collection showcases the label’s commitment to creating garments that are both innovative and culturally resonant.
Conclusion
Setchu’s FW25 collection is a testament to the power of cultural fusion and innovative design. By drawing inspiration from origami, manga, and Savile Row tailoring, Satoshi Kuwata has created a collection that is both visually striking and conceptually rich. The emphasis on reduction, multifunctionality, and sustainability positions Setchu as a forward-thinking brand that is redefining the boundaries of contemporary fashion. As Setchu continues to evolve, it is set to become an even more influential player in the global fashion landscape.
